Chanel builds a new house for 11 of its specialized designers


Demonstrating the contemporary side of pen work Рhand weaving, screen printing, laser cutting and the incorporation of less conventional materials or new techniques like 3D printing Рis a priority for moving the business forward, said Christelle Kocher. , artistic director of Lemari̩. .

“Fifteen years ago, we were less interested in all these trades, which can only be done by hand, with precision and passion,” she says. “The fear was that they would be lost with the older generation. Our challenge was to make things happen and, through Virginie’s vision for Chanel, to show that they can be modern and encourage a certain openness.

Samples presented to a visitor recently included feather flora and hand-painted rhodoid plastic; origami and pleating developed by Lognon. One sample featured a camellia pattern – a Chanel signature – woven, feather by feather, from feathers in 19 colors. It could take up to 1,200 hours to produce a single couture jacket with this weave, Ms. Kocher added.

“What’s exciting is to see how, season after season, these rare and age-old techniques can produce something new and innovative,” she said. “With all trades under one roof, the possibilities for dialogue between past, present and future are quite endless.

In a Lemairé workshop across the hall, a 19th-century machine hummed as a worker slipped organza ribbons through it, producing spaghetti-like strands on the other side. In another, baskets of duck, turkey, goose and ostrich feathers awaited a second life in the form of flowers and other adornments which, while not necessarily visible on the catwalk, bring rich details and additional movement to the patterns. Ms Kocher said all feathers used by the company are from responsible sources.


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